Modern and simplistic, this free raglan crochet pattern is the perfect autumn wardrobe staple. Designed with style and functionality in mind, this cozy sweater can be dressed up for events or dressed down for a cozy autumnal fit. Because of the raglan construction, this sweater is completely seamless making for an enjoyable process.
The weather is finally starting to turn colder where I live, which is making me sooo happy, but it also means it’s time to pull out all the cozy crochet sweaters! I have my favorite crochet sweaters (such as the Haven Cardigan and the Forager Cardigan) that I am constantly reaching for every year, and I can already tell that the Magnolia Raglan Sweater is going to be added to that collection.
As a raglan sweater, this pullover is worked top down in the round. Meaning there is absolutely no seaming. Yes, you read that right! I think this may be my new favorite method for crocheting sweaters. Not only do I love the fit of raglans, but I LOVE how the entire sweater comes together with no seaming whatsoever.
If you have been around for a while, then you will know that I have a slight fixation with the herringbone half double crochet stitch. For YEARS I have wanted to crochet a sweater using this stitch, but in the round (this stitch looks significantly different in the round versus in rows), but when I first had the idea, crocheting a raglan style sweater seemed nearly impossible to me. But as I gained more confidence in my skills as both a crocheter and a designer, I felt like it was the perfect time to make this sweater!
If this is your first time crocheting a top-down sweater, do not be intimidated by it at all! It is actually quite easy and I have plenty of photos throughout the pattern to help you!
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Skill Level: Intermediate
Materials
Yarn: 1410(1440, 1520, 1590, 1660, 1740) yards of sport (category 2) weight yarn. 13(14, 14, 15, 16, 16) balls of WeCrochet Andean Treasure in Cherry Blossom
Hooks: E/3.50mm and G/4.00mm
You will also need: Tapestry needle
Notes
- The pattern is worked in US crochet terms.
- This sweater is worked top-down in the round. The yoke is worked first, then the body, then the sleeves are worked last.
- It can be a little hard to see where the corners/ch space is for the yoke. I recommend using a stitch marker in each corner to avoid missing the ch space.
Sizes: XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL)
The sizes are written at XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL) throughout the entire pattern. If there is only one number it applies to all sizes.
Measurements:
Bust: 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48) inches
Length (Neckline to Bottom): 17.5(17.5, 18.5, 18.5, 20, 20) inches
Gauge: 9 rows of 9 hhdc worked in the round = 2 inches
Abbreviations:
Sl st: Slip stitch
Ch: Chain
Sc: Single crochet
Sc tog: Single crochet together
Hdc: Half Double Crochet
Hhdc: Herringbone Half Double Crochet
Yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over, pull through st AND first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch). 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.
Hhdc tog: Herringbone Half Double Crochet Together:
Yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over, pull through st AND first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch). Yarn over, insert hook into next st. Yarn over, pull through st AND first loop on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.
Pattern
Collar
With G hook, ch 23
Row 1: 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in every ch (22 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 2-63(63, 68, 68, 73, 73): 1 hdc in the BACK LOOP ONLY of every stitch (22 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Sl st the two sides together to form a circle.
Fold the color in half so that the collar is doubled over itself.
Ch 1, evenly hdc 80(80, 84, 84, 88, 88) around the collar through BOTH sides of the collar to fasten down the collar. Sl st into the first st, ch 1.
Yoke
Round 1: *1 hhdc in 19(19, 20, 20, 21, 21 sts), (1 hhdc, ch 1, 1 hhdc) in next st* repeat around (84, 84, 88, 88, 92, 92 sts). Ch 1.
Round 2: 1 hhdc in 20(20, 21, 21, 22, 22) sts. (1 hhdc, ch 1, 1 hhdc) in next st. *1 hhdc in 21(21, 22, 22, 23, 23) sts, (1 hhdc, ch 1, 1 hhdc) in next st* repeat around. 1 hhdc in last st. (92, 92, 96, 96, 100, 100 sts). Ch 1.
Repeat round 2 until you have reached the row count for your size. The stitch count should increase 8 sts every round.
Total Rows: 29(30, 32, 34, 36, 38)
Stitch Count: 308(316, 336, 352, 372, 388)
Inches from Neckline: 6.5(7, 8, 9, 10, 11)
The next row will divide the bottom for the sleeves.
Dividing Row: 1 hhdc in every st. At the first corner ch 6, 1 hhdc into the next corner to form a hole for the sleeves. 1 hhdc in every st across the back panel. At the next corner ch 6, 1 hhdc into the next corner to form a hole for the sleeves (308, 316, 336, 352, 372, 388 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Body
Round 1: 1 hhdc in every st around, work 6 sts into each ch space (314, 322, 342, 358, 378, 394 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 2-37(37, 39, 39, 41, 41)*:1 hddc in every st (314, 322, 342, 358, 378, 394 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
*or until you have reached your desired length for the body.
Ribbing
Here is a video tutorial on how to do the ribbing.
Switch to E crochet hook.
Ch 13
Row 1: 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in every ch (12 sts). Sl st into the next TWO sts (indicated by the arrows), ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 1 hdc in the BACK LOOP ONLY of every st (12 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: 1 hdc in every ch (12 sts). Sl st into the next TWO sts, ch 1, turn.
Repeat rows 2-3 all the way around the bottom of the sweater. Sl st the two sides closed.
Fasten off.
Sleeves
Attach yarn under the arm.
Round 1: Evenly hhdc 80(80, 84, 84, 88, 88) stitches around the arm (80, 80, 84, 84, 88, 88 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 2: *1 hhdc in 18(18, 19, 19, 20, 20) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (76, 76, 80, 80, 84, 84 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 3-4:1 hhdc in every st (76, 76, 80, 80, 84, 84 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 5: *1 hhdc in 17(17, 18, 18, 19, 19) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (72, 72, 76, 76, 80, 80 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 6-8: 1 hhdc in every st (72, 72, 76, 76, 80, 80 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 9: *1 hhdc in 16(16, 17, 17, 18, 18) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (68, 68, 72, 72, 76, 76 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 10-28(28, 32, 32, 34, 34): 1 hhdc in every st (68, 68, 72, 72, 76, 76 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 29(29, 33, 33, 35, 35): *1 hhdc in 15(15, 16, 16, 17, 17) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (64, 64, 68, 68, 72, 72 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 30(30, 34, 34, 36, 36)-33(33, 37, 37, 39, 39) : 1 hhdc in every st (64, 64, 68, 68, 72, 72 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 34(34, 38, 38, 40, 40): *1 hhdc in 14(14, 15, 15, 16, 16) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (60, 60, 64, 64, 68, 68 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 35(35, 39, 39, 41, 41)-38(38, 42, 42, 44, 44): 1 hhdc in every st (60, 60, 64, 64, 68, 68 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 39(39, 43, 43, 45, 45): *1 hhdc in 13(13, 14, 14, 15, 15) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (56, 56, 60, 60, 64, 64 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 40(40, 44, 44, 46, 46)-43(43, 47, 47, 49, 49): 1 hhdc in every st (56, 56, 60, 60, 64, 64 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 44(44, 48, 48, 50, 50): *1 hhdc in 12(12, 13, 13, 14, 14) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (52, 52, 56, 56, 60, 60 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 45(45, 49, 49, 51, 51)-53(53, 57, 57, 59, 59): 1 hhdc in every st (52, 52, 56, 56, 60, 60 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 54(54, 58, 58, 60, 60): *1 hhdc in 11(11, 12, 12, 13, 13) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (48, 48, 52, 52, 54, 54 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 55(55, 59, 59, 61, 61) : 1 hhdc in every st (48, 48, 52, 52, 54, 54 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 56(56, 60, 60, 62, 62): *1 hhdc in 10(10, 11, 11, 12, 12) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (44, 44, 48, 48, 52, 52 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 57(57, 61, 61, 63, 63): *1 hhdc in 9(9, 10, 10, 11, 11) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (40, 40, 44, 44, 48, 48 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Round 58(58, 62, 62, 66, 66): *1 hhdc in 8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, 1 hhdc tog in next st* repeat around (36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 44 sts). Sl st into first st, ch 1.
Cuff
Switch to E crochet hook.
Ch 13
Row 1: 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in every ch (12 sts). Sl st into the next TWO sts, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 1 hdc in the BACK LOOP ONLY of every st (12 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: 1 hdc in every ch (12 sts). Sl st into the next TWO sts, ch 1, turn.
Repeat rows 2-3 all the way around the bottom of the sleeve. Sl st the two sides closed.
Fasten off. Repeat with the other sleeve.
Weave in all loose ends and block.
I hope you enjoy the Magnolia Raglan Sweater! Be sure to tag me on Instagram with your cozy sweater, I would love to see it!
xo, Grace
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This is Awsome! It’s about time someone posted something besides scarves, mittens, and beanies.
How much “give” is there if you made XS thanks?
This sweater fits true to size, so there is not much extra give to it.
What size are you wearing in the pictures?
I’m wearing the small!
Hi. Row 1 of the body, isn’t there supposed to be 12 stithes extra (6 stithes each for the 2 sleeves? So for size 3,348?
Hey there! I’m excited about this pattern! After the neckline ribbing is folded in half (63 stitches), how do I make 80 hdc when I only have 63 spaces to stitch into?
Evenly work extra hdc around the 63 spaces.
Hi! I recently started tris probé y but im having trouble in the yoke part. See im making a sweater in the size L, so when i finish the collar i have 84 sts, but then when i do the first round of the yoke it fits perfectly with the 20 hhdc and then hhdc ch1 hhdc same sts pattern, but i end up with 92 sts and that is supossed to be for the Xl and XXL, i dont know what im a doing wrong, i tought i could skip the ch1 between the two hhdc in the same sts but im not sure, i dont know if you can help me 🙁
When you chain 1, are you supposed to skip de stitch as wel ? I have bought the pattern and have it here on the site. I crochet for a pretty long time now. But I really don’t understand the pattern. Please help me.
You work into the stitch
There appears to be a line missing at the beginning of the cuff section. Chain ?? and Row 1? I would imagine it’s similar to the ribbing at the end of the body, but are there a different number of chains?
Thanks!
Hello Sylvia,
Sorry about that, I went ahead and added that in:)
Grace
For rows 1 & 2 of the yoke, it doesn’t state to slip stitch to the first stitch to join the round. Am I supposed to slip stitch to close the round? Thank you.
Yes!