The Alcott Neck Scarf is the sweetest little accessory to elevate your outfits. Designed with a chic, knit-like texture, this beautiful scarf is timeless and modern. Written in 2 sizes, this pattern is effortless and versatile to wear. This scarf is designed to use less than one skein of fingering weight yarn (perfect for using up those scraps!), the size of this scarf can also be customized based on your preferences or the amount of yarn you have to use.
While neck scarves have always been timeless, they’ve especially become popular over the last couple years. I’ve designed a couple of neck scarves in the past (like the Dorchester Scarf and the Florence Bandana!), and they’re always one of my favorite projects to crochet and wear! After designing the Alcott Sweater Vest a couple years ago, I felt inspired to use the stitch pattern I created for the vest and turn it into a beautiful, chic neck scarf!
For this pattern, I learned a new technique, crochet i-cord! I wanted the edges of this scarf to have a really sleek finish and I felt like an I-cord would really tie in well with the ribbed section of scarf. If the I-cord edge is intimidating, do not fear! I’ve created a video tutorial for the technique. This is a simple 2-step process, and once you master the two steps it becomes more rhythmic and faster.
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Skill Level: Intermediate
Materials
Yarn
160(433)yards/36(91)grams of fingering weight (#1) yarn
Small Purple Scarf: Sewrella Yarn Nylon Sock
Larger Speckled Scarf: Frabjous Fibers Wonderland Sock
Hook
US G/4.00mm crochet hook or hook size needed to reach gauge
Notions
- Tapestry needle
- Knitting needle for the I-cord. You want the needle size to be similar to the size of your crochet hook (or slightly smaller). I used a US2.5/3.0mm needle
Pattern Notes
- The pattern is worked in US crochet terms.
- The scarf is worked from point to point, starting with increasing to desired width, then working additional rows for length, and then decreasing back down. The I-cord edge is worked around the scarf.
- You can easily adjust the size of the scarf to fit your preferences! Simply work more or less increase rows and work the same amount of decreases. Two sizes are written into the pattern, however you can adjust any size you’d like!
Gauge
8 rows of 13 sts = 2 inches
Ch 16
Row 1: 1 hdc in the second ch from hook. Work 1 hdc in every ch (15 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: *1 hdc in the THIRD loop only of st, 1 hdc in the BACK loop only of the next st* repeat from * across (15 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Repeat row 2
If you’re gauge is off, I recommend either going up or down a hook size, depending on whether your gauge is too big or too small. However, if changing the hook size effects your desired fabric, I would recommend either going up or down a size in the pattern (again, dependent on whether your gauge was too big or small)
Measurements
There are two sizes written in the pattern
Small: 33 inches long, 2.5 inches wide
Large: 56 inches long, 4.5 inches wide
Abbreviations
St: Stitch
Sl st: Slip Stitch
Ch: Chain
Sc: Single Crochet
Hdc: Half Double Crochet
Hdc2tog: Half Double Crochet Together
TLO: Third Loop Only
BLO: Back Loop
Stitch Placement
This scarf uses a combination of two techniques. The first is when working hdc, alternate between the third and back loop. The second technique is working with sl st to create a ribbed effect. Below are photos that demonstrate the placement of these stitches.
CLICK HERE for a video tutorial for where to work the hdc into the third and back loop
HALF DOUBLE CROCHET IN THIRD LOOP
HALF DOUBLE CROCHET IN BACK LOOP
SLIP STITCH IN THIRD LOOP
HALF DOUBLE CROCHET IN SLIP STITCH BACK LOOP
Pattern
Ch 2
Row 1: Work 2 hdc into the second ch from hook (2 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Work 1 hdc into the TLO of the first st, then work 1 hdc into the BLO of next st (2 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Work 2 hdc in the BLO of first st, then work 2 hdc into the TLO of next st (4 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: *1 hdc into TLO of st, 1 hdc into BLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (4 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: *1 hdc into BLO of st, 1 hdc into TLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (4 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 6: Work 1 sl st into the third loop of every st (4 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 7: In the BLO of every st, work 2 hdc into the first st. Work 1 hdc through BLO of every st. Working 2 hdc into last st (6 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 8: *1 hdc into TLO of st, 1 hdc into BLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (6 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 9: *1 hdc into BLO of st, 1 hdc into TLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (6 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 10: *1 hdc into TLO of st, 1 hdc into BLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (6 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 11: *1 hdc into BLO of st, 1 hdc into TLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (6 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 12: Work 1 sl st into the TLO of every st (6 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 13: In the BLO of every st, work 2 hdc into the first st. Work 1 hdc through BLO of every st. Working 2 hdc into last st (8 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Repeat rows 8-13 until you have (16, 30) sts, or until you reach your desired width. You should have an increase of 2 sts after every increase row.
Row 1: *1 hdc into TLO of st, 1 hdc into BLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (16, 30 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: *1 hdc into BLO of st, 1 hdc into TLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (16, 30 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: *1 hdc into TLO of st, 1 hdc into BLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (16, 30 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: *1 hdc into BLO of st, 1 hdc into TLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (16, 30 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Work 1 sl st into the TLO of every st (16, 30 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 6: Work 1 hdc through BLO of every st. (16, 30 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Repeat rows 1-6 for a total of 65(95) rows (not including the increase rows) or until you have reached your desired length (remember to account for the decreases! And with a wider the scarf, the more decrease rows you will have). End this section of the pattern after completing row 5 of the repeat.
Row 1: In the BLO of every st, work 1 hdc2tog. Work 1 hdc in the BLO of every st, until 2 stitches are left, work 1 hdc2tog (14, 28 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: *1 hdc into TLO of st, 1 hdc into BLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (14, 28 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: *1 hdc into BLO of st, 1 hdc into TLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (14, 28 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 4: *1 hdc into TLO of st, 1 hdc into BLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (14, 28 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 5: *1 hdc into BLO of st, 1 hdc into TLO of next st* repeat from * to the end of row (14, 28 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 6: Work 1 sl st into the TLO of every st (14, 28 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Repeat rows 1-6 until you have 4 stitches left and you have just completed row 3 of the pattern repeat. You should have 31(67) rows in the decrease section.
NOTE: For the hdc2tog in row 4, it is recommended when working through the first st, work through the TLO, when working through the second st to complete the hdc tog work through the back loop to maintain the same stitch pattern
Row 2: Work 1 hdc in the BLO of st, and 1 hdc in the TLO of last st (2 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Work 1 hdc in the TLO of st, and 1 hdc in the BLO of last st (2 sts). Ch 1, turn.
Do NOT fasten off yarn and continue to the I-cord edge.
I-cord Edge
The recommended edge for this scarf is an I-cord edge. It looks very timeless and elevated.
The I-cord edge is more time-consuming and a bit more involved. If you would like a simpler border, you can work evenly sc around the entire scarf, working 3 sc at both points of the scarf.
I hope you enjoy crocheting the Alcott Scarf! Be sure to tag me on Instagram with your sweet scarf, I would love to see it!
xo, Grace
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