Practical yet vibrant, the Eloise Tote Bag will be your staple for all your summer adventures. Designed with durability in mind, this free crochet pattern includes photos throughout to assist in the crocheting process.
This crochet pattern is the tote bag version of the Eloise Belt Bag. I adore that little bag so much I wanted to create a larger bag perfect for going to the farmer’s market or cozy afternoons in a coffee shop. I’ve already used this bag on several occasions and I’ve received compliments each time!
Vibrant and cheerful, I wanted to prioritize a practical and reliable structure. The back and front panels are joined together with a double stranded panel, a sewn lining secured objects and limits the stretching of the bag. Lastly, the leather straps eliminates some of the tension off to the bag.
Purchase the Ad-Free Pattern PDF
Skill Level: Intermediate
Materials
Yarn
779 yards(410 grams) of worsted weight (#4) yarn. I recommend using 100% cotton, for more durability and to eliminate stretching. I used WeCrochet/KnitPicks Dishie in the following colors: Swan (main color), Linen, Sweet Valley, Creme Brûlée, Buoy, Chambray, Jalapeno. NOTE: you will need more yarn if you are going to crochet your own strap.
The yardage for each color will vary based on how much you choose to change the colors. If you are planning on using a main color for the final row and for connecting all the squares (the cream color in my case), you will need approximately 550 yards for the main color.
Hook
- US G/4.00mm crochet hook
- US H/5.00mm crochet hook
Notions
- Tapestry needle
- 22 inches x 31 inches of fabric for the lining (I used 100% cotton)
- Sewing machine and thread (alternatively you can sew the lining by hand)
- Leather straps (I purchased mine on Amazon)
Pattern Notes
- The pattern is worked in US crochet terms.
- The squares are crocheted individually and then seamed together to form the bag.
- If you aren’t confident with sewing the lining, I have included a ton of photos showing the process. However, if sewing the lining isn’t an option, you can opt out of it as well!
- I’m a left-handed crocheter, so all the tutorial photos are worked from the left-handed perspective
- Anytime you are working a double crochet cluster (3 dc into the same ch space, the beginning ch 2 counts as a st.
Measurements
When laid flat, the bag measures 14.75 inches wide and 15.25 inches tall, with 2 inches of depth.
Gauge
Each granny square should measure approximately 4.5 inches
Abbreviations
St: Stitch
Sl st: Slip Stitch
Ch: Chain
Sc: Single Crochet
Sc tog: Single Crochet Together
Hdc: Half Double Crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
Bobble st: Bobble Stitch
*Yarn over, insert hook in st, yarn over and pull back through st. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook* repeat two more times working into the same st. Yarn over pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Color Changes
You can customize the amount of colors you use, based on your style or the colors you already have on hand. This bag is totally customizable! I chose to change colors every round. However, you could use one color for the entire bag or you could alternate between 2-3 colors, it’s completely up to you!
I wanted my bag to be quilted-inspired with a variation of colors, while stilling be cohesive and curated. So I opted to switch colors every round.
How to Change Colors
This method for changing colors is very seamless and easy to do!
When you reach the end of the round, insert your hook into the first stitch to join. Yarn over and pull back through the st, but do NOT pull through the second loop.
Yarn over with the new color, and pull through the two loops on your hook.
Pattern
Use the G/4.00mm hook
Ch 2 OR make a magic circle and ch 1
Round 1: Work 8 hdc into the first ch or magic circle (8 sts). Sl st into the first st, ch 1, TURN.
Round 2: *1 bobble st in st, 1 sc in same st* repeat around (16 sts). Sl st into the first st, ch 1, TURN.
Round 3: *1 hdc in st, 2 hdc in next st* repeat around (24 sts). Sl st into the first st, ch 2. NOTE: Do NOT turn
Round 4: 2 dc in first st , skip 1 st. *3 dc in st, skip 1 st* repeat around (36 sts). Sl st into the first st. Ch 2.
Round 5: 2 dc in first space, 3 dc in next space. [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in space. *3 dc in next 2 spaces, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in chain space* repeat around (16 dc clusters). Sl st into the ch 2, ch 2.
Round 6: Work 1 dc into dc into every st. In each corner work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] (72 dc). Sl st into first st.
Fasten off and block the squares.
Weave in loose ends.
Photo Tutorial
Use the G/4.00mm hook
Ch 2 OR make a magic circle and ch 1
Round 1: Work 8 hdc into the first ch (8 sts). Sl st into the first st, ch 1, TURN.
Round 2: *1 bobble st in st, 1 sc in same st* repeat around (16 sts). Sl st into the first st, ch 1, TURN.
Round 3: *1 hdc in st,2 hdc in next st* repeat around (24 sts). Sl st into the first st, ch 2. NOTE: Do NOT turn
Round 4: 2 dc in first st , skip 1 st. *3 dc in st, skip 1 st* repeat around (36 sts). Sl st into the first st. Ch 2.
Round 5: 2 dc in first space, 3 dc in next space. [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in space. *3 dc in next 2 spaces, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in chain space* repeat around (16 dc clusters). Sl st into the ch 2, ch 2.
Round 6: Work 1 dc into dc into every st. In each corner work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] (72 dc). Sl st into first st.
Fasten off. Use your preferred method for taking care of the ends. If you are using multiple colors, you will have a lot of ends to weave in. Since there are so many ends, I chose to double knot each of the ends together for each color. I’ve never had an issue with the knots unraveling. Especially, if you choose to include the fabric lining the knots should stay pretty protected. However, you can also dab a little glue to each not to secure it further.
Make a total of 18 squares. Block the squares.
Seaming the Squares
Arrange the squares how you would like them for the bag by creating 2 larger squares consisting of 9 squares.
Sew the squares together following any method and pattern you prefer. I recommend following the lines on the right for seaming. Sew the red lines first and then seam the blue lines together.
With the right sides together, whip stitch the squares together (or use your preferred method for sewing the squares together).
When joining the next set of squares, sew through both of the next squares and go back through the first set of squares. I like to do this 1-2 times to really secure the corners.
Attaching the Front and Back
We are now going to be joining the panels together by crocheting a side panel around the sides and bottom of the bag.
Start with the right sides facing each other. Determine how you would like to orient the squares. Start by joining the squares in the lop left corner.
With the H/5.00mm hook, double your yarn, so you’re crocheting with 2 strands and join in the corner space.
Ch 5 and sl st into the other corner space.
Sl st into the next 2 sts.
Ch 1 and turn.
Skip over the ch 1 and the 2 sl sts, and work 1 sc into the 5 chs (indicated by the arrows)
Once you reach the end of the row, repeat the steps above and sl st into the next two stitches along the side. Ch 1 and turn. Skip over the 1 ch and 2 sl sts, and work 1 sc in the next 5 stitches.
Repeat the steps above all the way around 3 sides of the bag working around the corners.
Now we are going to work around the top of the bag to create a clean finish. Ch 1, evenly sc 108 sts all the way around.
Once around, sl st into the first sc. Ch 1, work 1 sc into every st.
Repeat for a total of 5 rounds. Fasten off and weave in loose ends.
Fabric Lining
Cut a rectangle 22 inches x 31 inches
Fold the rectangle in half with the right sides facing each other. Sew along the seam that was folded over to form a tube, with a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.
Sew the bottom closed as well. The arrows indicate where the side seam and bottom seam should be.
Now we’re going to create the boxed bottom that will lay flat along the bottom of the bag. On each side of the bottom, fold with the bottom seam in the middle to create a point. Measure and mark 2 inches across. Repeat on the other side of the bottom.
Sew along the marked lines. Cut off the access fabric leaving about ½ inch from the seam.
At this point, place the lining in the bag, if you have a lot of excess fabric, trim down the top, leaving ½ inch to be folded over for the top hem.
Fold the top over ½ inch with the raw edge on the wrong side of the fabric.
Sew around the top to secure the raw edge on the wrong side of the fabric.
Slide the lining into the bag and pin the lining into place. Sew the lining into the bag. I was able to do this on my machine, however, it is significantly more bulky with the crochet material as well. Not all machines may be able to do this.
Attach the leather straps or your preferred straps.
I hope you enjoy crocheting the Eloise Tote Bag! Be sure to tag me on Instagram with your darling bag, I would love to see it!
xo, Grace
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